The Trail to Oregon
After a few days of mostly unambitious exploration of the Seattle area, I finally summoned the will to head to the coast. I was also planning to explore parts of Olympic National Forest and Olympic National Park but the town of Astoria and Cannon Beach would be the most important destinations. My goal was to arrive in Astoria in the late afternoon to visit some of the locations from The Goonies before heading to Cannon Beach and Haystack Rock for sunset.
The drive down I-5 was one of my least favorite parts of the entire trip. I was thrilled when I was finally able to exit the interstate and get back to mostly two-lane roads that wound along the Columbia River. While driving, it struck me how different the landscape of the Pacific Northwest coast feels compared to my more familiar Atlantic coast. For the most part, by the time you reach the eastern beaches, the mountains are a distant memory. Seeing snow-capped mountains was already foreign to me. Seeing them within a short distance of the coast was a completely alien experience. I stopped briefly after crossing the Columbia River to look back at Mount Saint Helens, another landmark deeply intertwined with my childhood memories.
Eventually, the landscape opened up and the mouth of the Columbia River became the most prominent feature in sight. I had finally arrived in the home of The Goonies. I stopped briefly at the riverside trail to look out at the river across an old pier where seals and/or sea lions had taken up residence. Then I was off for a quick tour of movie locations – Mikey’s house, the jail, and the historical society. The town of Astoria really is the town of The Goonies. In retrospect, I wish I had allowed more time to visit. Aside from its connection to one of my favorite childhood films, it’s also a lovely little town.
I was anxious to get to the beach. The sun was sinking lower in the sky and I wanted to ensure I had to find a good spot for sunset. The distance between Astoria and Cannon Beach isn’t insignificant. As I navigated to my destination, I couldn’t help but think that this would be a really long trip for kids on bikes. That’s the magic of movies, though.
The Lewis and Clark Bridge at Longview, Washington with Mount St. Helens in the background
The Astoria-Megler Bridge near the mouth of the Colmbia River
An old pier extends into the Port of Astoria
On the Beach
Thoroughly unfamiliar with the area, I parked in one of the first public lots I could find. It was easy enough to determine the direction of the beach but the hotels and condos made the walk much less direct than I would have liked. Once I finally found my way to the beach, I realized I was quite a distance from Haystack Rock. I could see it in the distance, bathed in the ocean spray and the low, soft sunlight.
WOW! WOW! WOW! My brain lit up with excitement. There would be no chance of childhood expectations being dashed on this day. Everything was perfect. The air was cool, but not cold. The sky was clear and blue. As I walked closer and closer, I grew more and more excited. I stopped, probably too many times, to admire the view and take a picture or two. The overall scene was soft blue with highlights from the golden sun. The soft ocean mist was helping to diffuse the late-day rays. It was perfect…moving in a way that I didn’t expect.
Haystack Rock glows in the late day sun at Cannon Beach, OR
Sunset at Haystack Rock
When I was finally standing within a few hundred feet of Haystack Rock, I could more thoroughly appreciate its scale and significance. It is more than a giant rock. It is a refuge and beacon for animals and humans alike. The base is surrounded by a tidal pool where many creatures live. This, in turn, attracts birds that hunt and roost in and around the rocks. Finally, humans gather around it like a temple to exalt in the wonder of nature. As the sun approached the horizon, people began to congregate for the evening service.
As the sun crept lower and lower, people began to pick their spots. I found myself next to a woman who had just arrived that day and who had been unaware of the connection to The Goonies. We talked for a few minutes as we waited. I fired off a few photos. There was a feeling of reverence that I have never experienced in a church. At the water’s edge, a man appeared to be scattering ashes in the water. I thought for a moment about him. I thought about the person whose ashes he was sending into the sea. The horizon was on fire.
The crowd stood mostly transfixed as the sun disappeared into the sea. As the sky began to turn gold, people began to disperse. My new friend bid me farewell and moved on. I set toward capturing as much of the remaining light with my camera as possible. The red and yellow band at the horizon grew more and more narrow and the sky turned an inky blue. Stars began to appear. First, there were a few. Many more would be revealed as the sun’s light faded away. Campfires dotted the beach. It was like a dream.
Rocky beaches are the norm on the west coast. I can’t wait to see more of them. Cannon Beach will always be first in my heart, though. It was the first place I saw a new ocean.
The sun begins to dip below the ocean horizon behind Haystack Rock in Cannon Beach, OR
Mapping the Journey
The journey to Cannon Beach began in Seattle, creeping down the congested, multi-lane Interstate 5 past Tacoma and to the town of Longview, Washington and across the Lewis and Clark Bridge to US Route 30. Miles of road gently winding roads over rolling hills, parallel to the Columbia River, lead to Astoria, Oregon and the storied Highway 101, then south to Cannon Beach.